One Particular Harbor – Hessel, Michigan
The off season is the perfect time to reminisce about past sailing trips and plan the next adventure. Today’s trip down memory lane is about a weeklong fall cruise aboard our Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410, with a stopover in Hessel, Michigan. Situated at the western end of the Les Cheneaux island chain in the Staits of Mackinac, Hessel is just a short hop from Mackinac Island. But it’s like another world compared to its famous island neighbor.
It was an unusually warm week in September, with lake water as warm as it gets and nonexistent crowds. We sailed around the east side of Mackinac Island soaking in the cliffs and scenery while ghosting along in light winds and crystal-clear waters. Crossing the straits, with the intent to spend the night in Hessel. Distracted by the endless coves and beauty of the Les Cheneaux Islands, we had no choice other than to explore. Marquette Island provided a perfectly protected bay for anchoring. With dead-still waters and just a few summer cottages visible, we had the place to ourselves.
After a nap, a swim, and a snack (often the routine with varying order), we pulled anchor and headed for the Hessel marina. Along the way we saw the still fully intact icehouse perched on the point. At some time in history, this is where the locals would cut ice blocks in the winter from the frozen bay and store them for use all summer long. I’m sure that hasn’t been the practice for many years but from the lack of development and pristine coastline, the area looks like we may have sailed back in time.
The Hessel harbormaster was casual and welcoming. He instructed us to grab a slip and square up if he was around. But he also mentioned that since it was late season and he was busy running two marinas, there’s no charge for the slip if he wasn’t around. I don’t want to set an expectation with anyone reading this because we were in the later part of September and staffing was light.
Older docks, modest facilities, and a choice of only one restaurant open at the time was perfect for us. Surrounded by the many islands that make up the Les Cheneaux archipelago, in the evening we sat in the cockpit and were amazed at the scenery and quiet. Which begged the question: When the last time I sat still, happily staring at “nothing” for that long.
After a day aboard, it felt good to walk around the waterfront to stretch our legs. Calling it “downtown” might be overstating the commercial district but eventually we found what we always seek out when cruising – the local bar. In Hessel, this place is “The Islander”. Great atmosphere, entertaining crowd and UP prices. Perfect. If you are in to fancier dining, the Les Cheneaux Culinary School is located in Hessel. You might have to Google some of the menu features to understand what you’re getting and I’m sure it’s excellent, but that wasn’t our thing this trip.
Most marinas don’t allow fishing, but in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, they do things their way. The Hessel marina provides good access for the locals who don’t have boats but like to fish. In September the locals were out in force, fishing in the marina for perch, splake and small mouth bass. It was a great scene of community coming together for a shared interest.
For us, Hessel checked all the boxes. We cruise to experience something different from our everyday life on the mainland and get out of our comfort zone for a bit. Not being catered to is a big part of the charm of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and we find that it’s more relaxing to avoid a pretentious marina setting. Hessel was exactly what we wanted. Anything beyond that, we really didn’t need.
